SARAH LOVES HAIR · FREE GUIDE
10 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT
HAIR COLOUR
The warmth starts before the toner goes on.
BEFORE WE START
WHAT IS PEROXIDE, REALLY?
Hydrogen peroxide is simply water with an extra oxygen atom attached: H2O2 rather than H2O.
H2O2 is a highly reactive chemical, keen to oxidise any other molecules around it.
As colourists, the theory behind it all can be mind-blowing at times, so I have put together a list of 10 things you need to know about hair colour to help lift your confidence when it comes to colouring.
THE GUIDE
10 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HAIR COLOUR
01
MIX AS YOU GO
Hydrogen peroxide aided by an alkaline environment (hair colour) will be responsible for the development of dyes AND responsible for breaking down the melanins eumelanin and pheomelanin. The first thing to understand when it comes to peroxide is that it will drive the product into the hair’s cortex, aided by the alkaline product softening the cuticle and allowing the dye molecules to develop.
It’s key to mix your colour and use it straight away: a chemical reaction occurs once the hair colour and peroxide meet in the bowl! Hair colour has no brain, it doesn’t know to wait until it’s been placed on the hair, so always mix as you go. Don’t use pre-mixed colour that’s been sat on your trolley for thirty minutes.
02
ALLOW FOR FULL DEVELOPMENT TIME
Peroxide will develop the dye molecules in the cortex, so you must allow full development time for the colour to bond and fully develop. It’s no good applying a colour or toner and washing off after five minutes… nope nope nope! This will fade fast. Opt for a purple shampoo instead.
03
UNDERSTAND YOUR STARTING POINT
The volume of peroxide will dictate how much “lift” dependent on its environment: a level 6 hair colour and 20 vol won’t lift as much as a 9/0 hair colour and 20 vol. Understand your starting point, map out each area of the head and use zonal toning and lifting techniques. I can show you how!
04
UNDERSTAND YOUR COLOUR & STRENGTHS
The bigger the window of alkalinity, the brighter the result, ie: a level 10/0 and 20 vol will be brighter than a 10/0 and 5 vol. Understanding what is in your tube of colour and your peroxide strengths will get you consistent results when lifting, colouring and toning.
05
MIX FOR A FULLER & DEEPER COVERAGE
We don’t use peroxide to pre-soften stubborn white resistant hair. Peroxide is acid and restricts the hair’s cuticle layer; instead we use a more alkaline permanent colour and manipulate our mixing ratios to get a fuller, deeper coverage.
06
PIGMENT FRACTURES FOR BRIGHTER RESULTS
Peroxide can only release as much oxygen as the environment in which it lives. The more oxygen is released, the more pigment it fractures; the more pigment it fractures, the brighter the end result.
07
LIFT ISN’T JUST PEROXIDE
Lift is the level of peroxide in situ with the level of colour we’re mixing it with. The lighter the colour, the more tonal shift.
08
UNDERSTAND THE CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT
Mixing a level 7 colour with 20 vol on a level 7 is still going to give you a level 7 result, with a warm end visual result. Remember 50% of your contributing pigment will make up your overall result. Same with 30 vol: you’ll still get a level 7, just with even more contributing pigment, so an even brighter level 7.
09
REMEMBER THE PIGMENT NEEDED
Remember that a 12/blue ash and 40 vol does not have the substantial amount of pigment needed to control the amount of contributing pigment when lifting a level 6. Instead, opt for a seven-level-lift lightener and a much lower peroxide. 10–20 volume and much finer slices will always get good, consistent results.
10
MIX SMALL BATCHES
Peroxide is not all the lifting power. For example, a natural level 6 will lift to a clean level 9 using a 5 vol (1.9%) developer. It’s the alkalinity of the persulphates in the lightening powder that allows a big window for that lift.
30 vol will obviously get you to your end result (level 9) but will destroy and dissolve everything in its path to get you there. I always mix small batches when working to keep my product working effectively.
TOP TIP
Opt for a lower percentage of peroxide. This will allow the lightener to work and burn for longer, resulting in a much cleaner and healthier blonde.
HEY, I’M SARAH
I’ve been in the hairdressing industry for nearly 30 years, and for the last 12+ years I’ve taught hairdressers around the world how to become more confident with colour, formulation and technique.
I’m an independent, non-branded educator, and my whole approach is about helping you understand why colour works, rather than copying formulas, guessing at the backwash or relying on the same toner every time.
I’m a huge believer in working smarter, not harder, and teaching colour in a way that actually makes sense behind the chair.
And if blonding is one of those areas where you still find yourself second-guessing the lift, the placement, the toner or how to get that really seamless, expensive-looking finish, then I’ve got something else you’re going to love.
My Perfect Blonde Masterclass takes you through the full process I use to create beautiful, bright, seamless blondes, from balayage and placement through to the colour melt and that final 20% that makes the result look expensive. Once you’ve gone through the guide, I’ll send you all the details.
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WANT A COPY TO KEEP?
Download the guide as a PDF to save on your phone or print for the mixing station.
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